A first look at the newest Bosscat Kitchen, now open in Old Towne Orange

When Rod’s Liquor closed on Jan. 31, 2020, Old Towne Orange lost a beloved landmark, a community treasure since 1949. So its owners, the Fraser family, reached out to Bosscat Kitchen & Libations to strike a deal in hopes it would help preserve the neighborhood.

Bosscat proprietor John “JT” Reed said his wife, co-owner Leslie Nguyen, fell in love with Rod’s at first sight, grabbing his arm so hard she made a bruise. “Her first thing was, ‘We want to keep it all. I don’t want to change any of it,’” said Reed of her immediate attraction to the place.

She told him they should “gently layer the Bosscat brand on top of” what was already there. “As soon as she said that it made so much sense to me,” Reed said.

Bosscat opened Tuesday, March 30 and for those who have not yet gotten a chance to check it out, here’s a sneak peek at its new look and info on what to expect from the menu and the atmosphere.

Background: Initially, Nguyen and Reed were a bit hesitant to make a move because they were concerned locals might think outsiders were trying to change Rod’s too much. But the Fraser family encouraged them to dig right in. The Frasers had previously turned down other buyers who they felt weren’t a good fit.

“We’re really happy we teamed up with Bosscat and I think they’ve done a fantastic job,” said Rick Fraser, former Rod’s Liquor owner.

“The liquor store has meant so much to the community,” said Rick’s son, Rod Fraser. “To have that in here and kept in place, I think it’s going to go over really well with everybody.”

The look: How do you remodel a place that was once a horse-drawn buggy repair, a gas station/auto shop and then an ice house/liquor store?  Nguyen, a style whiz, worked with a local firm, AO Architects, and Platinum X Construction to preserve as much as possible. Luckily Bosscat’s brand is rustic and industrial in a retro, almost steampunk, way that meshed with Rod’s.

She repurposed part of the original floor into a big common table. She took spigots and conveyor devices from the building’s auto shop days and transformed them into stands for high-top tables. She added special touches, like an antique pedal sewing machine and gold hanging bird cages that display premium whiskey bottles.

Faux gas pumps are still out front. The ice machine door dominates the dining room. Two of Rod’s neon signs have been set in places of honor. Photos of the Fraser family are mixed in with photos of Reed’s family, who were also restaurant owners in New York state.

The layout will be much more comfortable. Architects took a 1,000-square-foot liquor store and expanded out to the walls, creating a 5,000-square footprint by removing the storeroom and pulling out the loft to reveal high ceilings with skylights.

Now there’s an open kitchen, a 1,300 square-foot patio created from the drive-through, a dining room, a bar, a whiskey room for private dining (seats 14) and a “library” for private dining (seats 4-6). Full capacity is 150 seats but Bosscat will go slow and remain at 25% capacity inside through the end of April.

You’ll still know you’re in a Bosscat if you’ve ever been to the Newport Beach or Houston locations. Blue leather banquettes, steel, dark wood and copper cocktail shakers at the bar all give it that cozy, lived-in feel.

The new owners spent more than $1 million for the reno but they’re keeping the actual number close to the vest. Rest assured they didn’t overspend on velvet curtains and formal furniture. Still, there are tasteful bespoke touches like a lovely Victorian-style couch and a few Persian rugs.

The vibe: Authentically retro. The brick walls are real and the recycled wood comes from the building itself. There is even a woody scent that comes with age and cannot be replicated. Could it be that the walls are infused with small whiffs of 1920s cigarettes and cologne? A perfect setting for sipping gin and whiskey.

A few nights before opening, passersby could not stop gazing into the windows. Their presence and all the pedestrian traffic of Old Towne should keep the scene lively.

Food: Chef Charlene Doan will work under the tutelage of Executive Chef Peter Petro. Corey Muir is the brand’s regional chef. The comfort food menu will be identical to Newport’s with the same pricing, $38-$42 per person, with a drink included. But new items will be added. Owners will be gathering feedback from locals and adding dishes and drinks accordingly. A cocktail named after Rod’s was already in R&D before the opening.

Drinks: Bosscat has been a pioneer in the craft cocktail movement in Orange County. But its drinks aren’t fussy. “Our cocktail program was never meant to be mixolology,” Reed said. “Matt Sharp, our bar director, always had a very clean and very clear vision with a lot of pre-Prohibition style cocktails: pretty simple, very neat, very approachable. That makes a lot of sense when you look at the history of this property.”  Of course there’s wine, and taps will always be local so look for Chapman Crafted and other favorite brews.

What to wear: Casual but cool. Anything you would wear on date night.

Family friendly brunch: Bosscat is known for its craft cocktails and the crowd is typically 25-45, but since Orange is home to lots of families, the restaurant will start brunch early on the weekends. That’s the best time to go with the kids and order favorites like the “Donut Burger” and Fruity Pebbles French Toast. Fresh treats from Miss Mini Donuts, Nguyen’s delicious side hustle, will be sold.

Info:  118 W. Chapman Ave., Orange, 714-716-1599, bosscatkitchen.com.  Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Wednesday;  11 a.m.-11 p.m. Thursday-Friday; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday for brunch, 3-11 p.m. for dinner; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday for brunch, 3-9 p.m. for dinner.

The last word: Reed, who grew up in a small town in upstate New York, was inspired by Old Towne. “One of the first times that we looked at the space, it gave me a lot of pride because my hometown had a hometown America feel, and this was the one of the first locations I really felt that,” he said. “I felt the community support. And at first it wasn’t necessarily a positive thing, like ‘Why are you here? Why are you putting Rod’s out?’ But, you know, they just really wanted to make sure that we were coming here to be authentic and to help the community.”

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